Connect your desktop PC (anything with a serial port, or use a USB to serial adapter) to TrackBot for debugging purposes. Use any terminal emulator program to enter commands by hand, monitor sensor data, etc. Or you can use a small Linux system as the application brain for TrackBot.

This is perfect for benchtop testing - put a stand made of Legos or a small cardboard box (the Atmel Dragon programming adapter is perfect!) under TrackBot so it won't drive off your bench. We do this to test sensors and experiment with new code while connected to debuggers, scopes, etc.

To connect to a PC or other host with DB9M DTE serial connector, purchase the 2mm DCE serial adapter with 150 mm cable. 150 mm is better for use with JStamp, Bluetooth etc as it's just enough cable to reach the serial header without a lot of extra getting in the way.

You can velcro the serial adapter to a piece of Snap Track mounted to standoffs, but we usually just leave it hanging off the side of TrackBot (keep the signal contacts on the DCE adapter from accidentally contacting headers on TrackBot!).

Two TrackBot mounting holes are spaced to accept the plastic mounting clip which ships with every SPOT development kit. This provides easy snap-in mounting of SPOT when it is used as the application brain for TrackBot.

While our limited supply of SPOT clips lasts, when you order TrackBot we can install this clip for a modest charge. Or you can send your clip to us if you want us to also solder in connectors to the SPOT eDemo board.

We use RoHS-compliant #6-32 x 3/8-inch SS screws, nuts, and internally serrated lockwashers.

1. Remove the power jumper JP6 to disconnect the TrackBot battery
2. Carefully remove the four TrackBot mounting screws with a #1 Philips driver.
3. Note the routing of the wires and the orientation of the front of the TrackBot board and the battery pack connector, and where the motors are. We provide a photo which shows you the correct way to reconnect them, so you don't need to make your own diagram.
4. Gently lift up on the circuit board to get space for your fingers to reach the three connectors. Unplug the three 2-way connectors (1 power and 2 for motors). You don't need to remove the battery pack.
5. Orient the SPOT clip with the large tab towards the front of TrackBot. Use the two holes nearest the aft (rear) of TrackBot, as shown in the installed mounting clip photo.
6. Use a #6-32 x 3/8 Philips pan-head screw through the clip from the top of the circuit board. On the bottom of the circuit board use an internally-serrated lock washer and a nut. There are no PCB traces in this area of the circuit board, so this is safe to do if you use an internally serrated lock washer. Don't use longer screws - they could penetrate and ruin the battery pack.
7. Tighten the screw while holding the nut fixed; do not tighten the nut! Tightening the nut will either needlessly stress the lock washer or will cause it to spin and grind away on the circuit board. The nut will want to stay in place due to the lock washer so you can tighten the screw with (at most) finger pressure on the nut. Just "finger tight" is enough.
8. While the chassis is open you can check the tightness of the four set screws on the gear train and idler wheel shafts, and if you wish, put a drop of Mobile 1 synthetic oil where each wheel shaft penetrates the chassis, and on each shaft of the gear train. We do that at the factory, and it won't hurt to do it every year or so, or when changing battery packs.
9. Criss-cross the motor wires when you reconnect them. The wire on the port side crosses over to the starboard connector and vice-versa. Reconnect the battery pack. Note: the wires criss-cross under the battery pack, so the criss-cross again over the pack makes it all come out right - the port motor connects to the port driver on the PCB and ditto for the starboard side. Two wrongs don't make a right but two criss-crosses do connect the motors correctly.
10. Lay the PCB on the chassis, watching to ensure that you don't pinch a wire. If the battery pack is properly installed (pack wires exit on the end of the chassis *away* from the gear train), and the motor wires are routed under the battery correctly (criss-crossed), it's *almost* impossible to pinch a wire.
11. Line up the four chasis corner holes with the four mounting holes in the TrackBot PCB install all four special metric M2.5x8 screws just enough to hold the board in place. Don't tighten them down yet.

The only way to charge SunSPOT is through its USB connector. Therefore on the revision 2.21 TrackBot we provide a USB power receptacle (visible just above the SPOT clip in that photo) and make available a short USB cable for this purpose. These short cables are unbelieveably hard to find and cost a LOT more than standard length cables. We buy in bulk and pass on the savings.

In addition you need a way to connect the eDemo UART to TrackBot. There are a few options:

We can provide a ribbon cable which mates with the low-profile socket which now ships with all SPOT kits (you need to solder it into the eDemo board, or we can do it using RoHS solder). This connector is very low profile and you can still use the "sunroof" with it installed. You can also insert component leads (resistors and capacitors, or small solid wire) into this socket. However, this socket and its mating connector are expensive, fragile, and hard to obtain (sole sourced by Samtec and they are sometimes out of stock). We don't highly recommend this option due to its fragility. However it's simple and if you insist on using the low profile header, we do sell this cable. Just be very very careful handling it.

Pro: simple, and sunroof still can be installed (when not using the cable)
Con: male connector is very fragile and expensive

You can also use the Sun-recommended low profile socket strips which come with current SPOT kits, along with the rugged ribbon cable below, and with a pin-to-pin header which mates between the eDemo socket and the IDC receptacle in the ribbon cable. If you break the header, it can be easily replaced.

Pro: more rugged than the all in one cable. Sunroof still fits (when not using the cable). Ideal if you will be using your SPOT sometimes with TrackBot and sometimes alone. Pin to pin header can be replaced separately.
Con: pin to pin header is expensive and a bit delicate

If you have a SPOT without the low-profile socket, we recommend you install a more rugged .025 square dual-row header and use widely-available, rugged, low-cost IDC receptacles for the SPOT to TrackBot cable. The drawback to this approach is that you cannot use the sunroof (but you have to remove it anyway to use the pushbuttons and to see the LEDs, so this is no great loss). You can use commonly available micro clip leads or leads with .025" receptacles on the ends to connect these header pins to prototype boards or other devices. We've *never* seen damage to these pins, and they make a very positive connection.

Pro: simple, rugged and low cost. Recommended for labs and student use. Common .025 square test and clip leads also fit over the .025 square posts of the header.
Con: sunroof doesn't fit once you solder the pin header into the eDemo board (but you can't use the sunroof while a cable is plugged into the eDemo board anyway.